Let’s Do Turkeys for Chinese New Year

“Dee, can you get the Yim Kai from the fridge?” Kay’s mother hollers from the kitchen.

I look at Kay, who is equally blurred. Salted Chicken? We look into both fridges, opening and closing doors. There was a large turkey sitting in the chiller staring back. Maybe it’s a Cantonese tradition, Kay volunteers.

Kay’s mother ambles towards us, she has the look of one annoyed with the foolishness of youth – that being Kay and I.

She shoves pass us and takes the turkey out. “As plain as day itself and these two think they can cook it by staring at it!” or some Cantonese idioms to that effect.

Both Kay and I are clueless. He doesn’t speak his mother tongue and I, being part Hakka am equally hopeless.

Kay’s mother glares at us. “I thought you meant salted chicken, Mom,” Kay says.

Kay’s mother takes out the bird and places him on a large enamel plate.

“I had to book this Yim Kai from Ipoh. This one’s a big boy, about 6.5kg and cost RM50 per kilo, “she boasts.

Yim Kai is a castrated young cockerel; a capon. The sifu in Ipoh castrated him when he was about 8 weeks old. The cockerel’s testicles lie within its body cavity. Sifu makes a small cut then, inserts a string around the cockerel’s testicles, and then yanks it out.

Ouch!

After he loses his “balls” his comb and wattles ceases to grow. His head has a dwarfed appearance and his hackle, tail and saddle feathers will grow unusually long.

He’s also less frisky; stop running after hens and have no interest in fighting either. He become very docile and resigned and start eating and gain weight. He's less aggressive than a rooster and is easier to handle.

Our eyes widen totally horrified. OMG Animal abuse resounds in our heads. Just as bad as cockerel fighting!

Kay’s mother continues, unabashed, “This is nothing new. People in China have been doing this for centuries to produce good quality meat that is tender, moist, juicy and more flavourful than regular chicken. The meat of uncastrated old rooster is coarse and stringy. The Capons are specially fattened, grows slowly and accumulate more body fat.

They’re ripe for the slaughter at 10 months. The nostalgia that these dishes bring out - how grandma’s chicken used to be and how it should be - in short, it brings back, the real taste of chicken!”

“You two stop looking like that. Don’t even know where your food comes from, eh?” Kay’s mother admonishes.

“Kay, this is what we’ve been eating for special celebrations such as Chinese New Year and the Mid-Autumn Festival, wedding banquets and prayer offerings. You use to call this fat fat pak cham kai, remember?”

Kay turns a deep red. I glare at him. “You!”

Kay looks towards his dad, fast asleep on the deck chair, his pagoda brand singlet rolled up exposing his huge belly, just covering his man-boobs. Kay’s dad snores, swats an imaginary fly in his sleep. There’s a tiny glint of saliva at the corner of his mouth.

We look at each other and then at Kay’s mother.

OMG, Kay’s dad’s a capon of sorts.

A big boy, Capon at Shilin Night Market.

Yim Kai (Cantonese) ~ The mention of castrated cockerels may draw sniggers and giggles.
Sifu (Cantonese) or shīfu (Mandarin) ~ is the identical pronunciation of two Chinese terms for a master
Pak Cham Kai ~ Chicken steeped in stock, white cut chicken

Doris Lim is a popular freelance writer who blogs as Little Fish on travel and food stories here. Be sure to check out her other inspiring stories and follow her Instagram @SmartDoryID & Facebook to check out more places to eat delicious street foods or dine in the best restaurants!